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  2. argh, its only a rabbit! but if it gets too vicious, you might need The Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch! 'Tis one of the sacred relics Brother Maynard carries with him! Yeah, I have a weird sense of humour, hopefully you get the reference
  3. Another quality thread Turnip, in fact two Reston’s for the price of one 👍 Both models with a different angle as well, 1 modern and 1 vintage.
  4. I really like the HS2 and Jons work is a joy to behold. I will be watching this thread with great interest 💥
  5. I really like the look of the KC, I’ve had a couple in the past and a Monster racer but sold them on. I’m buying much less and more specifically and this is one of tje last models that I would like to buy back and own long term 😊
  6. If the 74085 tool set did a good job for you, I would just get another set. I'm using the same tool set but have some other specialty tools that I've picked up along the way (like some Integy turnbuckle wrenches, Dynamite hex drivers, and various other tools). While the MIP tools are great, those seem overkill for the price and use for me. I'm not racing nor competing so I don't need top of the line tools (and have never broken a tool on my R/C's). Not every tool in my garage for me cars is a SnapOn tool.
  7. Today
  8. I think the sandmaster is the same chassis as the axxe. Of so stay clear. The gearboxes are absolute garbage and made of dairlylea cheese. Very poor effort from kyosho
  9. I will say that while the Optima was far better received than the Blackfoot by RC fans I have no idea about sales figures. From the US perspective, the Blackfoot probably sold better as it was very popular here, even with folks that weren't diehard RC enthusiast back in the day. I even remember people comparing the Optima re-release to the Egress re-release which was around at that time even though they were from different eras originally.
  10. I recently hijacked a separate thread by @Jonathon Gillham - who kindly overlooked it 😂 - then wondered if this topic was worth wider views ? I’ve loved my old Tamiya 74085 tool set but its now on its last legs after 4 years hard labour ... The small driver handles have worn from repeated pushing in / out of the larger grip and the tip blades are dulling to the point they risk threading the heads of smaller screws / bolts My question is whether its worth investing in a full TRF tool set now that (a) I’m confident they’ll get the mileage and (b) I tend to dabble in older kits where metal integrity can be dwindling or head / thread erosion makes a true set critical in avoiding damage Or are others - like MIP or Hudy - genuinely better for the money ? Conversely, maybe just replacing the 74085 set is actually the smart call ? Sourcing a full set of TRF kit with a an OEM work stand is going to set me back c. $175 including postage - which is fine if they’re worth it ... but not so much if not 😂 All views much appreciated
  11. Evening all, I’m after a NIB vintage 58042 Rothmans and 58052 New Man RM please. Neither need be mint / perfect but must be boxed and 100% original / complete - largely because I’m going to build both in the Autumn 😬 Cash waiting for the right ones 👍 Best, SC
  12. Agree with @moffman Theres maybe a degree of well intentioned over enthusiasm here 😇 Tamiya don’t need to do anything beyond sticking to evolving strategy which - even though it may be boring and a little opportunistic for older hands - is clearly working well for them financially and in bringing new blood to the hobby In parallel it’s cleverly fuelling the fires with fresh interest in their back catalog ... Fwiw I also agree with @Saito2 re the last time Tamiya went head to head with Kyosho in pure bread racing buggies - which didn’t end well for them
  13. My cat is like that plus she has some mystery sinus issue the vets can't seem to diagnose which means she does rapid fire sneezing fits, usually in the vicinity of one of my RCs or my face. Hard to stay mad when she's snuggling her head under my chin though. The little....
  14. I like your optimism! Can you explain a couple of things please? What did you mean by 2.7 springs and shocks built with no rebound?
  15. Agree with @KEV THE REV re the look of the new shock towers But they may have finally fixed them snapping or the anchor nuts threading ? Its hard to tell if they improved anything else ? but agree with the general excitement here The Ultima - esp carefully hopped - beats the RC10 any day in my book So yes - another 2 will go on order when it’s released 😬
  16. That's just the sample image from thingiverse, mine are going to be vertical too I think. I think the infill makes a big difference. The first few bits I tried were only 30% and they shattered with alarming ease. The same parts printed at 100% were way stronger even though the actual design of the parts wasn't all that great and not suitable for 3d printing with all the harsh right angles etc. I also quickly learned that ABS was a little more flexible than PLA. PET and PETG more so again. Hopefully it will ok ok but time will tell. I really need to try and learn a basic grasp of 3d modelling so I can work on stuff myself but so far, all I've achieved is to feel really stupid. People keep saying it's really easy And you just need a few measurements etc but I suck at it!
  17. On Monday I was given till Wednesday evening to clear out my workspace so all my projects have come home for now. My Tamiya corner: There's a lot more to relocate but at least my RC stuff is in the warm and dry. Fingers crossed my rabbit doesn't get the taste for vintage kit boxes and old plastic!
  18. I'm interested in becoming a member with paid subscription, but every time I try to login to the main page or reset my password, it says the credentials are incorrect or my email is not registered. However, when I go to create a new account, it says my username is (obviously) already used. Any thoughts? Probably a simple answer, so my apologies in advance.
  19. No worries bud, Get them sorted then we can work on getting you to the start of the grid for the A Finals
  20. @El Dougo Thanks so much! Will follow those recommendations as i work through and see where i get to.
  21. That's so not good I'm not sure where to start dude and apologies if this is suck eggs but the below base will be a significant improvement over you current. 2 deg camber all round, 1-2 deg toe out at the front and anything over 3 deg rear toe in inst good. I would go for 2.5 as that's generally the happy place. Something most people omit is making sure that the steering travel is equal and sufficient, you want about 25 to 30deg travel. Build the front and rear shocks the same, I would start with 45W or equivalent on 2.7's all round built with no rebound. Ride height front and rear also the same 5-5.3 but the closer to 5 the better. The 6deg caster hubs make a big diffidence but are not as strong (will be fine for outdoor). Put a thin roll-bar on the back and make sure that there both working freely with the shocks disconnected. More eggs but when you lift one arm the opposite should rise at the same time to the same height. Not enough droop go for 5 front and 4 on the back to start with. Are saying that the inner upper arm spacer is smaller than the outer? As I expect you know this will give you camber gain but you generally would not want more than a .5 drop. I would start with the even or a .25mm drop if possible as the camber gain can be quite significant under tight cornering. Go for a spool front diff or much thicker oil 1,000,000+ and 5000 in the rear. I would also move the battery to the front of the tray. Final thing is something that most people find counter intuitive is the belt tightness as loose is better, on a twin belt car it's the number one mistake. I will have missed something but hopefully the above helps. Get busy and let us know how you get on as I'm sure once your car is working as it should you will get hooked on club racing .
  22. How’s the internals coping with those wheels? Did you upgrade them?
  23. I’d hope for a bespoke body for this one I think the sills extend deeper and the bumpers are different to the standard model. And there’s the big bash guard thingie (technical term).
  24. Price reduced to 100 euro excluding shipping for fast sale
  25. So.....do you think they would reuse the lexan hilux extra cab body with different stickers?
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