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  2. did that parts lot cost much? Could've just made it an excuse to buy an AVante...
  3. Not much they'd all be long shipped off to China or India for recycling aka recovery of gold & other plating elements. Back at PC warehouse I once found the techies de psoldering components with a heatgun off fullsize motherboards (this was 486 era or AMD K5). The big boards were nice and the 1000s of little holes didn't weaken them... but they were tinned and all that solder does weigh a bit! Cali huh... you'll be in same state as Associated? Along with fibreglass boards they also loved to use Kydex. Kydex is another great material for DIYing in our RC hobby, not as stiff as fibreglass but a lot more resilient & easier to work. You can carve it with a knife and not make a duststorm by cutting it.
  4. WillyChang

    For Sale - Tamiya TRF 3 Car Carry Case (New)

    This is a great bag, regardless of price. And you don't have to use those black cardboard boxes, you can swap them with the kitboxes that come with TRFs and many of the pro racing chassis kits. Or if you've got the half height boxes that came with VDF... you could put six of those in there for safekeeping!
  5. WillyChang

    Slash 4x4 heat on 3s.

    Back 6-7yrs ago there were a rash of owners trying "big block" motors... usually after blowing up their Velineons and afaik they usually talk about Castle Neo 2200 & Mamba Monster or similar from HobbyKing. Pretty sure you'll need to get a new ESC for the big block motor too. If you're lucky the motor might just drop in without needing mods; very likely need a different pinion to suit the bigger shaft size. Then again, if I were looking at a $500 brushless combo + needing lots of DIY work... that new X-Maxx for $900 sure starts looking tempting 8s!
  6. This is awesome! I've never even considered such a use for old PCB's but wow, people have apparently been doing it for years righ under my radar. I wouldn't both etching off the copper either. In fact I can envision an entire chassis made up of green, blue, red, or whatever other board colors you can scratch up. A harlequin chassis anyone? Hmmm, I live in the silicon valley. Just imagine how much gorgeous surplus PCB board is stacked in warehouses just looking for a buyer.
  7. Today
  8. WillyChang

    DIY Body kit Molds

    Inconclusive on the paint I use both PS cans and Fascolor airbrush mainly, with a bit of Pactra, PC or Spaztik or Alclad II on occasion. The Evo7 in champagne above is PS when the anodised paint first came out. I painted a swagload more bodies from same batch in PS met blue & black & smoke for a "public test drive" fleet and somehow none of those fell apart even though they sure got a beating that weekend. These shells were bought by the carton during a local warehouse clear out, think they were importers of yumcha RCs like HSP or similar. One of the odder models copied was the Baja King I've yet to put that shell onto a TL01B. Plastic feels a lot waxier than lexan. Plus if I wish to do minor remodelling, boiling water or a jet of steam is enough to get it pliant. To do same with lexan I'd need to bust out the heatgun.
  9. dannymulder

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    I love the gf-01, I have a heavy dump truck its a lot of fun to drive, its a wheelie machine not the most stable car but I love to drive it. Mine is not stock, its got long arm suspension and proline badlands sct wheels, and gmade shocks and a castle 5700kv brushless motor in it.
  10. SurreyDad

    Tamiya M-07R Chassis Kit build #84436

    Body time and sorry but this may be quite long.. When I was planning the build, buying hop-ups and waiting for the kit to become available, I looked at the choice of bodies and was slightly underwhelmed. Delivery from overseas for bodies is pretty expensive so I wanted to buy from the UK but there was not a massive amount of choice of (Tamiya) bodyshells, either in stock of the correct size. The M-07 chassis can be built with either an M (225mm) or L (239mm) wheelbase. Looking at UK stockists, if I wanted to stay with Tamiya and go 239mm, I have the choice of either a Mazda2, Citroen 2CV or the NSU TT and if I wanted to go for the 225mm wheelbase, I could choose either the Suzuki Swift or the Mazda MX-5. Considering those options. I decided to go with the medium/middle option and bought both the Tamiya Monster Go Pro Super Swift Body #51545 and the Tamiya Mazda MX-5 ND 2015 - Clear Body #51583 I know that a front wheel drive MX-5 is technically wrong but it really doesn’t bother me as I guess an electric MX-5 is also technically wrong plus the MX-5 is one of my son’s favourite cars so anything to encourage him must be good…oh and I found a paint scheme online that I really liked..oh and if I was ever to buy a RWD car, something like an M-08, then I have saved money by already having the bodyshell….so mind made up I am still contemplating the paint scheme for the Swift. I had originally planned on going on a slight variation of the boxart, i.e. white…but I was going to incorporate more black and also some blue to (hopefully) tie in the blue from the hop-ups. However, an issue is the GoPro decals, the text is in black so cannot really go onto a black shell. I guess that I don’t have to use them…so I will put that bodyshell on hold until I can decide what to do. The last couple of shells I’ve completed, I have tried to make them more complex, using multiple colours, matt clear, home-made template masks, liquid mask, PS-53 lame flake, various objects to make patterns (satsuma netting bags), etc. The following is my method of painting a shell, lots of this comes from advice and comments on this forum, other bits are from experience and finally the last bits are down to guessing and winging it. Step 1 – cut out the shell Step 2 – make the holes for the body posts and wing mirrors, the indentations in the body lined up with the body posts. Step 3 – sand the edges, working my way up the grades – (I bought a pack of 30 small (23cm x 9cm) sheets of wet and dry in assorted grades (120 – 3000) from Amazon). Step 4 – find the centre line. This was quite tricky, I took a number of measurement across the body and marked the centre line and then used some 2mm masking tape to mark this point. Step 5 – make a template for the centre stripe. I thought it would be easier if I just use some 18mm masking tape for the strip to ensure that there are no errors in measuring/cutting. Step 6 – create templates for the other stripes. This was done by first roughly creating the shape on some A4 paper. To get the curves I just grabbed various household objects, cups, bowls, etc. to get one that had the correct curve radius and then used that in the template. Step 7 - cutting out the template, offering it up to the body, seeing where it doesn’t quite fit, making a template of it and editing it to get a better fit. Repeating the steps until I get a good fit. I am sure that there will be some trimming or patching up but I will be happy if I can get as close as possible to the final design. Step 8 – using thin masking tape, sticking the templates to the bodyshell to see how they fit. Step 9 – sticking the templates to the masking sheets. I use a small amount of glue to hold the templates in place and if possible I use a straight edge of the masking sheet for the straight edge of the template. Step 10 – draw around the template and cut them out, repeat with the template upside down to get the mask for the opposite side of the car. Cut out the window masks. Step 11 – wash the body with warm soapy water and let it dry. Step 12 – masking. First the window masks, the side window mask overlap the window frame so I cut the mask to allow me to have the main window and then the small triangular window. then as the light colours are going to be painted last, these will be masked next along with the centre stripe. Then the line between the gunmetal and black at the front of the car. This is followed by the lines that surround the yellow and finally the non-black sections are filled in. Some of the masks were difficult to get into place, especially where the body curves or has areas that stick out/in. Once the mask is put onto one side, it is a challenge getting the mask on the other side to match. Step 13 – wow, 12 steps to get to this point, so now the painting: The colours I am using are: Black (PS-5), Gun metal (PS-23), Yellow (PS-6), Silver (PS-12), White (PS-1), Flat Clear (PS-55), Lame Flake (PS-53). In the trusty spray booth.. Black – two very light coats, one thicker coat and one final coat to cover the gaps. Remove the top layer of masking. There were a couple of tiny bits of bleed on the rear where the tape had to conform around the bumpers. I had originally wanted the yellow stripe to be lined with black but I didn’t actually do this to the rear, however once I looked at it, the more I wanted to add a black section to the rear to match the front. I am thinking that I have two options here: 1) Mask off all the areas that are going to be gunmetal and spray the black again or 2) Mask off the small areas that are going to be black, paint the gunmetal, back it with silver (as I am not sure how opaque the gunmetal is) and then paint the black. Although I don’t think it is the best option, I have decided to go with option 2, Next steps are: Gun metal and then backed with silver as I am then going to do the… Black rear section of the car. Remove the rest of the masking. Lame flake followed by yellow Backed with white to ensure that the yellow remained bright, followed by silver and then black. Remove the window masks, I have decided to not apply smoke, yet. I then cut the overspray sheet off from just the parts of the roof that are going to be matt, followed by some flat clear. The photo below shows the body with just the roof overspray film cut off. Finally, I removed the rest of the overspray sheet. There are quite a few areas where the darker colours have bled through to the yellow. I am generally happy with it although I wish I had rechecked the masking tape on the yellow areas. This was possibly caused by there being a few days between applying the first bits of tape and finishing off so perhaps some of the tape lifted slightly. Also there were quite a few layers of paint (23 to be exact) and various bits of making tape were removed during different stages, perhaps some of it lifted then. Final steps are paint and fit the wing mirrors and apply some of the decals but this is how it's currently looking:
  11. OCD

    TA03rsTRF shocks

    The old 53155 low-friction set is also an odd shade of red -- far more pink than the standard Tamiya red coating. It's my personal belief that Tamiya chose this color to be more fade-resistant and it just didn't go as planned If you look at the Surikarn next to anything that Tamiya has produced in red, you'll notice that Surikarns are always a bit of a unique "rose" color. I'll have to upload some photos later, but I also believe Tamiya were aware that the Surikarn didn't have any matching hop-up dampers, so they actually sold a very limited number of damper bodies with rose-colored caps. Now I know you're probably thinking "but didn't they offer the 49294 "red" TRF dampers already?". Well yes, but that set isn't the correct color for the Surikarn. The 49294 set is more of a deep red and doesn't at all match the rose-colored chassis parts. I happen to have both versions in my collection and the difference is very obvious when seen in person.
  12. PCBs are an oldskool source of fibreglass board back when resources weren't as easy to google on the interwebs & not everybody lived in cities with lots of aircraft maintenance/repair work where you might be able to score offcuts of carbonfibre board. Some etch off the copper but I never bothered... helps shield stray RF interference I say.
  13. max69vk

    FAV Bug

    This looks like lot of fun! I’m liking the bonnet mounted gun, I just cheated and nicked one of an FAV!
  14. I thought already about it but had no time to draw some. I think the wall thickness might be the problem... I do SLS printing. Just had a look at my Dyna Storm, yes, I might do that. But the point was, I got a set of new damper bodies and wanted to complete them. Luckily no rush with that.
  15. Anyone got one of these for sale?
  16. Leonis DB02 is a short lived once off model. I can only think of one other model with this fate - the Fox Will we appreciate DB02 in the distant future? There is not much story around it’s conception.
  17. SuperChamp82

    For Sale - Tamiya TRF 3 Car Carry Case (New)

    Sorry guys - I should have said I’m UK based 🙄
  18. Jason1145

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Sold to that man..... I have two chances to get it built tonight ready for my 1.5 hour drive to the beach tomorrow...... those are zero and none... but it just jumped up the pecking order for sure cheers.
  19. Any chance you have a link for those recommendations? I’m having trouble finding the sss 3650 7.5D motor. Thanks for the input!
  20. nowinaminute

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    It will enrich your life lol They are amazing fun at the beach! I've done quite a bit of work on mine and it has improved a lot but it's still unmistakably a Lunchbox and great fun! Even stock it's fun to drive. It understeers under power and tightens up off the throttle so although it handles like a jelly, it still relatively predictable when it comes to cornering and although my mods have made it much more stable, even as stock, I find the understeer helps to stop it toppling over most of the time. They are fun, look great, easy to work on and even if you take it through salt water at the beach, a full strip down doesn't take more than a few hours because of how simple they are. The gearbox is very resilient to dirt ingress too. Build it! Do it now.
  21. moffman

    Any guess on re-re 2019?

    Yeah your bang on when you say kyosho started getting serious! Tamiya started going down the dare I say toy(ish) route maybe they thought/knew that there was a good market down that route🤔 don't get me wrong the models aren't bad I just can't help thinking after the SRB'S, avante family, hotshot etc why not build on the success of those beauties!
  22. KitTheRam

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    First time on a track. Few mishaps. Few good lines. Possibly the slowest video ever posted on this forum.
  23. Jonathon Gillham

    For Sale - Tamiya TRF 3 Car Carry Case (New)

    I would grab this, but shipping would be twice the price...
  24. graemevw

    What 2s lipo fits egress/avante?

    The main issue is the cable outlet, especially if you want to fit a lipo alarm. If the cables come out the top you need to drill the chassis, if they come out the end the battery needs to be as short as poss, although the battery tray is quite long, its just narrow. 46mm TOPS. I modded my batteries and the chassis to make it work.
  25. Tamiya no longer make these and its never been used. It was bought for £130 as part yet another plan that I'll never get round to starting ... I'm looking for £50+ please so PM me with any questions or offers. It will be on here for a week then go on eBay if no one is interested. Thanks, SC
  26. Tizer

    The Cool Wheels Thread

    So much cool stuff in this thread. I need to get some of my wheel collection out to show you guys.
  27. Tizer

    TA03rsTRF shocks

    I always thought they were supposed to be red. The Tamiya red anodizing does fade though over time making it look more pink. Look at some of the TBevo Surikarns, some are a light pink. But you're right. I just checked the official listing. This is in their spec list.
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