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Same here, I'm generally not a fan of RTR servos, and I'd rather assemble my own shocks vs having them tightened down too much in a factory. I was looking at Fazer hop-ups and if there's any big point against the Fazer it's that a lot of the hop-ups are out of stock.
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Well yeah I was really but also any other bright ideas about shapes like this, whatever they might be. Thanks for the bump anyway! One other idea would be to paint from the top, because a concave top is relatively safe from scuffs, accepting a different finish. How well do tamiya decals (/stickers? Sorry!) adhere to and last on a PS painted surface? Maybe paint the top (for better protection) then lacquer it for gloss for better matching? So then the old question resurfaces - what gloss clear is suitable and effective over PS?
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Thank you for calling it a "trophy truck", as opposed to a "crawler". On my end, I picked up a scratch and dent Redcat "drift" car. It's a decent runner if cheaply made in some areas (ton's of self tappers). What's nice is that it takes AE and Tamiya springs, there's plenty of adjustability out of the box, and bodies are cheap.
- Today
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I'm referring to 380 for the gold pan. I hate to promote Tower but you can get an Egress for less than that after discounts. Not only it it a way more complex kit, but I would argue the quality and materials are better as well not to mention the presentation. I honestly doubt the plastics cost more. Exactly, so that leads me to believe that AE would want to take advantage of volume sales after having invested so much to get this into production. My prediction is that they release this under the "40th Anniversary" guise to capitalize on FOMO at a higher price and then re-re a standard version for the masses who are not willing to go that high. Best of both worlds from their side and they won't get flak because the 40th is still "special"
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I had to dig the thread from the second page of The Builds! One thing I particularly enjoy about TC is how active the builds' section is. So much amazing work is very humbling for me. As I trudge through a difficult month with little RC time, I am happy that I was able to do the following in April so far: - Get a crack at the Postal Racing with my M-05 (and I wish I could take a bit of time to update the thread...), it's fast and I think I could really put it on the podium if I could just get a few hours in, to learn the rhythm of this month's track and nail a perfect 5min run. - I put together a GT3 racer for the new Endurance Racing by Post but it's just not handling the way I want and I need a couple of hours to tune it. - I realized that the Group C could really enter Endurance by Post if I just installed a fan! It's not perfect but it's already handling quite good with the only manageable flaw of requiring pod balancing, and I am almost there thanks to one of those Eureka moments I had one morning as I awoke! - This weekend one of my work mate and I are actually headed to an indoor off-road track! We plan on inflicting a maximum of damage to his 4x4 Slash as well as a rental (!) Slash for me, that I can apparently drive for 15$. I am excited about this change of RC scenery! But today I will just show how I mounted the fan. I truly don't see how I could make a simpler and lighter installation. It's a tiny piece of black styrene, attached to the wing mount with double sided tape as suggested by @TurnipJF. There is only 1 screw. And I tapped threads directly into the styrene so there is no nut either! The fan is helping a tiny bit with the pod balance and it is blowing over the comm/brushes as well as one opening in the can: I am quite looking forward to seeing how effective that big fan is, especially since the temperature in Arizona are now well above 30deg C. Normally now is a "brushless-motor-only" time of the year for me. We will have to see how it goes. And I always have a 21.5t motor and ESC available if I really need - that one will run stone cold, especially on a pan car, and even in the heat of summer. Next up will be the "Eureka" pod balancing system But I can now drive the car anytime the stars align. If the motor isn't too hot after 5min, I will just give a try to the 30min Endurance race. There are 10 days left!
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ScalerController - an Arduino MFC for scale rigs
Mad Ax replied to Mad Ax's topic in All things electric...
UPDATES! I've not been working on this project recently, as I was trying to tidy up some of the code a month ago and managed to introduce a bug during optimisation that I have been chasing ever since. I'm pretty sure I know what I did - by trying to save memory, I was replacing byval parameters with references, but somehow the underlying values stored in memory were being overwritten, causing the controller to do totally bizarre and unpredictable things. This has caused countless hours of hair-pulling, swearing, and probably 3 full wasted days of my redundancy leave before I finally gave up an hour ago and restored it to an earlier version. During the rollback I lost some new functionality I had added, but that's my fault for not committing regularly and rolling up lots of refactoring with new functionality, but it's OK, it was all on github so I was able to get it back and reinstated it. Also managed to get the other last bit of critical functionality working as well, in under 10 minutes, which is pretty good after 3 days of non-productivity. So, where are we now? cruise control - working, operable using right-stick y-axis inertial steering - working, with weighted values to slow the steering servo down and smooth the operation lights - working using left stick x-axis floodlight - working using 2-way switch on Tx (this will put a light out the back of the truck so I can see where my feet are going) winches (front and rear selectable by a 3-way switch, then a single aux rotary can be used to operate either winch - I'll replace the rotary on the Tx with another 3-way switch when I have time) gear selector - operating as a direct pass-thru (no mapping or inertial values) from a 2-way switch on the Tx (could use a 3-way or rotary or axis if you have a 3-speed gearbox) - I'll use EP adjustment on the Tx to program the gears so I can change it easily if I have selection woes on the trails Aside from some cleaning up of the code and adding in a neat boot-up sequence, it's pretty much ready to go now. I'm hoping I'll have enough time to get the Scania out of storage and install the Arduino in it, then see how well it runs on the trails. There is one other neat feature that I might add, if time and funds allow, although it's mostly just a dream idea right now. I'll keep it secret, but if it happens, well... It changes, literally, everything. -
RC gallery (absolutely No words-pics only)
silvertriple replied to Nicadraus's topic in General discussions
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I love the experimenting! Are these tires normally for the "Nitro Sedan" touring car classes?
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i use a 2S LiFe 2400mah battery in my 4PM, it lasts very long. but not all LiFe batteries fits the 4PM, Arrowmax makes a one, which is what i use.
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Tamiya brushless TBLM connector bullets - what are they called?
Howards replied to Howards's topic in All things electric...
Thanks. Looks like a slightly different design but I'll give it a punt. -
I was surprised too, especially the rear ones!
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@Pylon80 Thanks! Awesome and very helpful info. I'm surprised tbh, they appear thicker on photos.
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There was some details missing on the Hilux and the City, and I had some remaining work on the Zerda... The Hilux got some paint on the tires, it looks even better this way... I had to do the paintjob on the Zerda, it is only the driver figure, and it actually did not took much time... I decided to keep in the red, white and black theme... I also add a bit of paint on the tires, which will do the job until I print tires for this car... Finally, I added some paint on the tires of the Rock'nCity, which is still missing a steering servo and an ESC. This is easier than to fnd a City bodyshell, so i'm not worried.... I will have to take the time to take a picture of the 4 Hirobos together (as there is also the Bearcat SS)...
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Agree. With a track width of 165mm, it is 15mm narrower than the XV02. As the XV02 has 37cm shafts, the 30mm shafts could fit. I am thinking of the nice 30mm Double Cardan Joints 42300. 🙂 -
monster beetle Help with identifying Monster Beetle!
Twinfan replied to okieran's topic in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
You just need a 7.2v NiMH with an appropriate charger - lots of choice out there -
Slapped on some wheels and tires and original bumper and body posts. Now I'm calling this done.
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No, I did not. Fussing about with makeshift solutions seemed silly when using Lithium AA worked fine, and when I knew I would just go LiFe eventually anyway. There is a menu setting for a custom battery alarm (CSTM) that you could probably make work with the 3x AA rechargeables if you were really committed to making it work.
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The MX V and MX6 both used a Rx that was unique to them and not used by any others in the sanwa lineup. I don't think there were clones made either. The 3PV uses all but the latest FHSS rx so shares them with the 10PX etc. Same with the rest of the Sanwa lineup, the MT4S can use any FH3 or FH4, the M17 can use FH3, FH4 and FH5, plus there are the aftermarket clones around too for both Futaba and Sanwa I also find that rx don't die so if you have enough then should always be ok?
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@bRIBEGuy have you tried fitting the 4 cell battery tray from the 3PV on the 4PM? Looks like it will fit. But yeah, the LiFe battery is a good investment, can’t imagine going back to AA batteries on my transmitters
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Ruddog accepted my pre-order today. Deliveries expected to start in early to mid May.
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Make sure you post the YouTube video 😉
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That pretty much makes the "optional" life battery mandatory... Not a huge deal, just a 40$ extra expense for me here in the US. Not a huge deal but it seems a bit annoying that there wouldn't be a way to adjust dry cell/NiXx/Life in the menu like you can do on certain Tx. Of course once you have the LiFe battery I am sure you never look back.
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Yes, that is correct.
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Just to understand correctly, because I am not native speaker: Dry Cell means normal batteries from shop?
