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  2. Here is my list as far as I can remember:- Saint dragon- TBG body to paint and add the MCI decals, rest of it is done Vanquish - TBG body to paint and add MCI decals and a full strip and rebuild. Also add the correct tires which I have now sourced. Fire Dragon - change wheels and tires to originals, same for Thunder Dragaon and Thundershot then they are all finished as all had a full rebuild My old Boomerang needs a nut and bolt strip, clean and rebuild (no parts needed as I did a very basic sort last year, will add a better set of wheels and tires though) Midnight pumpkin (another of my old cars) needs a better condition original shell as mine is ........ed as let middle son play with it. Also needs some steering parts Oh and I want a Wild WIlly (2 most likely as will not pay price for an original) and an Astute. Then I will have no display space left.........unless I put up another case!!!
  3. Though the bodies are different, it vaguely reminds me of the old Kyosho Heavy Metal monster tank van.
  4. Sorry been off here for a bit with summer other hobbies take over for a few months. Its an Ikea Detlolf with extra shelves to double the number of cars. I have two of them strapped together with the joining walls removed so the buggies fit it. Hope this helps. You can buy the additional shelf mounts off ebay as quite a few people 3D print them. I saved a search on Gumtree and picked up four of them locally for less than one new one.
  5. Wing looks well, glade to see it put to good use.
  6. Running video of the Astute please Are you sure its the rim ? not a tyre or bearing issue?
  7. Measured roughly here on car , the fibrelyte unit is approx 2 cm taller, My Fibrelyte front tower has the upper crossbrace, and is measured using the upper mount hole, there are five options on mine for mounting position My Astute with the Fibrelyte tower is fitted with Dyna Storm sleeved dampers and the chassis bottoms out first, but it also has Dyna storm front arms fitted
  8. Today
  9. There are some trestle tables and a few chairs IIRC. No food though, so bring your own (Blyth isn't far away). I haven't been for a while; really looking forward to next week!
  10. Saw this, like it mostly. Shell seems to be a most like a Ford Econoline, what was the gt40 midengine version called? The Supervan? The wheelbase is spot on for a monster truck though at 273ish, not sure on the width. Either way I smell a clod sized lunchie in my future.
  11. Drumstick for the Snackbox build LOL I bought some little shiny wheels, more little shiny wheels...
  12. You could try using a Jubilee clip to get it to the correct shape and then put it hot water for a while, take it out and let it cool, then remove the Jubilee clip. Might work, worth a go maybe ???
  13. Oh my, what a completely and utterly stupid thing to do...... Listen, I'll PM you my address and you can send it to me and I'll keep it out of the way. That was no one else will have to know. There's a good chap.
  14. I actually find front caster has a more profound effect on stability than toe. Positive caster will make the front wheels want to steer in the direction the car is travelling in so the car tracks straight, as long as the servo is not forcing them to steer off course. Some slop in the steering, combined with positive caster therefore makes a car track straighter. Unfortunately, caster is often non-adjustable on many models because the angle is built in to the plastic parts. Most 4WD Tamiyas have very little built in, and require modification to get more. Theoretically, toe in at both axles should improve stability and this is mostly true for 1:1 cars. Imagine the car is travelling down the road and the car starts sliding slightly on the pavement and rotates a little to the left (it's now facing a little towards the left gutter instead of directly down the road). Now the left wheels which were previously scrubbing slightly due to toe in are pointed perfectly down the road and no longer scrub, and the right wheels are pointed even further towards the gutter causing them to scrub even more than normal. The right wheels scrubbing gives a slight braking effect and skid-steers the car to the right, counteracting the slide. However, there is a second effect. If the car starts steering towards the left due to steering slop, a bump/pothole in the road or tyres ballooning and becoming different diameters, the car will experience a weight shift to the right wheels (which in turn causes bodyroll to the right). Now the right wheels experience higher grip than the left wheels and produce a stronger steering force to the left, than the left wheels produce to the right. This results in the respective axles independently steering to the left. If the rear steers to the left and the front axle does nothing, the car overall turns to the right, so toe in at the rear definitely helps stability. If the front steers to the left and the rear does nothing, this makes the problem worse as it causes the car to steer even further to the left, therefore in the case of weight shift front toe in can decrease stability if there is a significant weight shift across the wheels on an axle. That is probably why some people report that front toe out improves stability, instead of toe in. Personally my go-to setup for stability is toe in at the rear, zero toe at the front, and positive caster. Some toe out at the front seems to improve the aggressiveness of the steering, and might decrease straight-line stability slightly although to be honest I don't notice a huge change compared to adjusting rear toe or caster. If there is a lot of slop in the wheel hubs, you may need to slightly toe out the wheel from the alignment that you want, because any driven wheels will toe in under power. As above, servo and servo saver make a big difference too. If you can move the mounting point that the steering arm attaches to the servo saver/horn closer to the center of rotation (effectively reduce the length of the horn), the servo requires more rotation to give a certain amount of steering throw. This may reduce the amount of steering, but reduces the effect of a deadband/centering error from the servo. Some servos just have a large deadband, which is how much the input signal has to change before they actually command the motor to move. This stops them constantly hunting around and burning themselves out. You can test this by turning the steering to full lock and back to centre in either direction, and checking if the centre position is the same from both sides. A servo with a large deadband will stop significantly right of centre when returning to centre from the right, and left of centre when returning from the left. Making sure the steering is mechanically adjusted to center (remove the horn/saver and reinstall centered) with no electronic trim will ensure you have close to even throw to the left and right before adjusting end points. Finally, consider adding a steering gyro.
  15. my 2 cents for what its worth. I am tighter than a fishes bum when it comes to money, but personally I think the subscription rate you charge is not that much really, and I would even wear a slight increase. If you do go down the ad route, I know you are thinking as a subscriber I wouldn't see ads, but if I were to see ads, I would prefer to see ads that are relevant to Tamiya or RC users (so probably sponsored ads). Another option is if you sell limited ad spaces and actively push those products on the front page somehow. A site I regularly read called Daring Fireball has a model like this. But I get that may not work for you though. Having tried adsense for a customer and seen it in action personally when trawling the web, I think it's next to useless anyway. I've never seen relevant ads come up for me, and anything that is relevant is usually after I've bought a product anyway. Options like patreon seem to be coming more popular too, where select users pay more because they like the site and what to see more content/development. Or you could go the Tested route and offer a premium version (don't ask me how that would work though!) Ad the end of the day, you'll have to try lots of options until you find something that works for you and us users, but I think most of us are on board in helping you figure that out.
  16. Yup. Hook it directly to a 4 cell nimh pack and just dunk it right in. Best way to break in and clean brushed motors. You'll be surprised at how dirty that water will be once done. Here are some easy steps to follow for best results. Once done running in the water, remove it from the water while it is still running. With the motor running, blow it as dry as possible with compressed air spray. With the motor still running and holding it so that the shaft faces down, spray Duratrax Powershot "up" in the motor. This will get the last gunk and water out. Give it another good blow of air. Unplug it and lube the bearings. That's it. Remember that your motor should spin the same direction when you break it in or clean it, as it spins when run in your rig. For a brand new motor or a really dirty one, just let it "stew" in the water for 30 mins. Don't use lipos for this, and anything above a 4 cell nimh will just wear things rather than break them in or clean them in my experience. If it's a really slow motor like a stock 540 or lower rpm, you can use a 5 cell pack. But for anything half decent spinning 20k+ rpm. 4.8 volts is the ticket.
  17. That's a bummer, hate it when that happens. As others have said, definitely caused by contamination. I always wipe doen my surface with isopropyl alcohol a few minutes before spraying and never have an issue. Alcohol is great at getting rid of contaminants and gives a great surface to start with. Just painted a Bruiser body today that I sanded a while back, just wiped it down with some alcohol, shot base then clear and it came out nice.
  18. I’ve heard of this but never done it, so you actually run the motor completely submerged in the water?
  19. This afternoon I was running my newly restored Astute ( amazing by the way). While doing so I noticed that the front wheel was out of round. Almost egg like. Anyway got an idea how to fix? Can I boil it? Astute front wheels are kind of rare and hard to come bind. I don't want to ruin it so I'll wait to here your opinions. It looks fine stationary.
  20. Yesterday
  21. Well, that was interesting lol. I went back to the beach. It didn't go quite to plan as I got my times wrong and arrived at high tide, doh! There wasn't any decent flat sand and people had been walking all over the soft stuff and leaving deadly mini potholes everywhere so it was tough to find enough space to work with. Why are families so selfish? It rained earlier in the day too so even the soft sand had a kind of damp mortar like quality rather than the soft fluffy stuff there usually is. Anyway! First of all, I managed to get some old Pro Line Sand Paws so I slapped them on my DT03 (they would have scrubbed like badword on the Kumamon or Holiday Buggy shell) and jeez, these things have insane grip in the sand. My DIY tyres were pretty good but these things are something else! Even on 2s it was really difficult to keep the nose down! You certainly notice the difference in weight between a hard body with a bear in the driving seat and lexan! And those tyres were just tenacious! Between the lack of a decent running space and the tyres, I found it pretty much impossible to use full throttle or get up to speed. I'll have to get some weight in the nose and come back when the tide is out. It might be worthwhile changing to my DIY tyres too for this particular buggy. They seem to be a more conservative compromise in terms of grip. The Pro lines definitely make for less stalling though! I did try it on 3s, it was more of the same pretty much. It was very difficult to get the power down without flipping. I would have had a play with the EPA given more time. It's definitely exhilarating though! I just wish there had been more space with smooth sand so I could have really opened her up. I need to take the preload collars off the back too I think, it's way lighter than the hard body '02s so with the same amount of pre-load, it's too bouncy. As far as temps go, I didn't bother to measure. It got too hot to comfortably touch on 3s but meh. Nothing melted. I tried to get some video but it's hard to drive and film at the same time when you're dealing with something a little volatile and space is limited! Here's 2s: And 3s. I struggled to go flat out on 2s so using the full power of 3s was nigh on impossible with the limited amount of smooth ground and trying to film but there's maybe one or two passes where you can at least see there's more power on tap:
  22. It's not a "true" solid axle truck, more of a beefed up truggy but it looks **** cool. This is the kind of thing Tamiya should make imo. Tamiya are famed for quirky bodies and Kyosho come along put out an awesome looking van that can run rings around a Lunchbox. It's a pretty simple chassis and just a lexan shell but the execution is great. It looks cool and will probably handle pretty well and despite not having the biggest ground clearance in the world, the 4wd and big tyres will surely give it some half decent ability. Come on, Tamiya!
  23. Thanks for sharing. Very cool.
  24. I’m liking that so far. I’d love to build a camper van with detailed interior one day
  25. They are 3D printed the design was off the internet and my friend printed them for me (I think he made some subtle changes https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2738311 JJ
  26. My list FF03 Pro: not running, waiting on motor spacer from hk, body needs painting Top Force: running, waiting on another body to paint and use mci top force evo stickers M08: need to build, waiting on pinion, stabilizer, body and esc Arrma Outcast 4s running, leaky rear shocks waiting on replacement from arrma
  27. bjorklo

    TT-02B MS WEE

    Thanks, glad you like it. I try my best to do it the way I want to experience it.. But still room for changes...
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