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  2. 3D printed a full scale version of @silvertriple Hunter protoype body in eSun ABS+ filament and run 5 vac forms with 1.5 mm ABS. They turned out well and this was little degradation of the 3D print. I think I could easily get 20 or more forms from it. Next step is white ABS and then try some polycarbonate
  3. @Paulus welcome aboard, looks like youve got a real nice classic there and a good start whatever you decide to do. Its a great hobby and dont hesitate to reach out to the many experienced folk here on this forum for help if you need. All the best Kurt
  4. I've got some Tamiya Big Bores, which I feel maybe wasted on this, and some Aeration dampers that I'll probably opt for. The lower damper mounts have just arrived from RCMart so I'll probably look at getting the dampers on this evening.
  5. ok, managed to do a second test, this time full scale and printed in eSun ABS+ a couple of errors, but overall not too bad. I had planned to clean it up a little, but ran out of time and thought just do it! So I ran 5 forms using 1.5 mm hair cell ABS, a little bit of trouble getting the mold out, I need better grip on the underneath, but otherwise no real dramas and the all formed really well. The 3D printed mold is starting to smooth a little, but otherwise I think I could have kept going for 20 or more forms with out too much trouble. I'll start cutting them out over the weekend and take some better pics.
  6. Strange. It is in printed version of TT-02, but in online .pdf I do not see it.
  7. It's semi-permanent, so it can be broken. Best to have a good set of drivers to avoid damage, though. Don't use automotive 'red' threadlock as this is way too strong for Tamiya screws. In my experience the Tamiya red and blue threadlocks are similar in strength and don't prevent you getting the screws out.
  8. Love that paint job. Def one of my favourites on TC. That's a great photo of a great car.
  9. @Pylon80 and others, who used carbon shock tower. To check dimensions before I install everything, I did some measurments. I compared stock shock tower, carbon and carbon Type S. As a reference point, I used holes on center, which are used to screw tower to diff cover. Then I marked shock holes. In stock part, I marked bottom one as in manual. I measured +/- position of arms and distance from center of chassis to shock mounts. Then I measured distance from shock mount on tower to point on arm. Stock: 50 mm Carbon S: 49 mm Carbon: 54 mm (!) Of course, measurments are not super precise but give general view. I am confused: it seems, that if I replace standard shock tower to carbon, chassis will be around 4 mm lower. Ekhm, why? I expected that there will be exactly the same position on both + some additional holes on carbon. It seems that it is not correct. Am I wrong?
  10. No, you do not need that. Does your manual tell you to mount that? What manual is that? The only manual I know that asks you to mount that part is a printed version of the TT-02D manual I have. All the manuals I find for download, including TT-02D, omit mounting that part. If you have universals, you can even dremel away the limiters on the front knuckles.
  11. Holy cow Kevin, not my favorite shell (although my dad had the tl01 Version bitd) but you make every car look cool perfectly. Oh and i always thought the distorted hasseröder logo was sth. They actually ran, like the marlboro Black stripes etc.... well And the chassis is a true BeautY anyway. I love the looks of it, maybe even more than the Look of a hopped up ta02 or ta03. I just cant get round the fwd in my head. Didnt know you dont like the flamingo dampers.. i used to think the same, but in the meantime i like them... The Top Deck with the writing is sooo nice always.if i ever get a top force, i got to have the cfk top Deck at least because of the white Letters. And the lowering of the c.o.g. of course
  12. Ooh good tip thanks @Mad Ax I hadnt seen that mentioned in the instructions. Is thread lock a permanent thing like modelling cement or is it easy enough to break the grip if parts need to be dismantled?
  13. Today
  14. Hello, Sorry for bringing up what must be an old chestnut, surely thrashed to death many times in the past - I can't find "the definitive answer", though...the benefit of your collective wisdom would be much appreciated. I want to change the motors in my WR01 to brushless. The WR01 is twin motor and one runs CCW whilst the other runs CW. If I told you what I've read on the matter so far, perhaps you could confirm/deny/explain the issues to me: ▪️Sensorless motors can be run in reverse by swapping the phase wires, but the timing also needs to be reversed (e.g. +15 to -15 degrees). ▪️Sensored motors can't have their phases swapped, so can't be run in reverse like this; they have to be set as reverse running via ESC programming. Not all ESC's have this option, though, and I can't see how you tell which do, other than by reading their manuals. ▪️BL motors with fixed timing can still have their timing adjusted via the ESC...not sure about this one. Can the ESC adjust the timing of a reversed motor? What if the timing is fixed at non-zero? ▪️Some ESC's dynamically adjust the timing, but is that just sensored ones? Do you only get that with non-budget ESC's? I've only seen even the option to _reverse_ the motor via programming on a FlySky 160A 150.00+ ESC... To paraphrase Mayor Quimby, "I choose to do these things not because they are easy, but because they are hard..." Thanks for any advice 👍
  15. Thanks! I didn’t even know those plushy tips exist for a Dremel.
  16. BTW: Do I really need this steering limiter mounted below central shaft? Yesterday I found that probably there was tiny stone and scratched cup axle badly. I have steel universals, so I believe that with EPA set, it is not necessary anymore.
  17. My main RC workbench has always been a standing bench, I'll be on my feet from around 9am to 5 or 6pm on a Sunday when I'm working on my projects, and my back is better after a day of that than a day of sitting at my computer for work. Since I'm in the workshop, I'll be wearing sturdy walking boots all day - standing in slip-on office shoes sucks. That said, I've had loads of lower back pain too and it's been debilitating for me also, so I definitely feel your pain. Going for a standing or sit/stand desk may well be a good option. Last week I called in at a shop dedicated to workspace options for people with back pain. I was recommended a Capisco 8106 chair - look it up online. They aren't cheap but I had a trial on one and it seems like a game changer. It can be a regular sit-down chair but ergonomically designed, and the perfect height for stretching out my back (I got some nice cracks while testing it out). Also it can lift up as a "perch" for sit-standing, you sort of straddle it (hence the odd shape seat), it takes the weight off your feet but still lets your back be straight. Finally, the real deal for me, is you can it on it backwards and rest your belly against the rest. I spend a lot of time typing, so my feet are forwards, my back is reclining, but my shoulders are forwards to reach the keys, so I'm in a C-shape, like pretty much every other desk jockey. The deal with the new position is my entire body is straight, my feet are behind me, my hips are straight, my back is straight, and I'm canted towards the desk, so I can get close to the screen and keyboard without having to hunch. I figure if you're hunching over to get the vision detail, some kind of reverse sitting arrangement might help. I'm going back to the shop today for an extended trail, maybe 2 hours, to make sure it's going to be right for me, as it's a lot of money to blow if I don't get on with it. But since I'm changing jobs next month it seems like the perfect time to refit my office and try this sit-stand thing that everyone is raving about.
  18. You can try to take a run on the rally blocks you got with your XV-01 (without the body, because of overall diameter). The hard kit ones are good overall tyres on tarmac in typical winter/spring conditions. As long as you limit the wheelspin you'll be surprised how good they grip and the low wear rate.
  19. I will start with different question: Do you know theory, how to handle understeer? Common mistake is to try turn wheels more, if front starts to go straight. You have to reduce wheels angle, to have gain grip and then try to turn again. Of course, it is bit tricky in RC world but it is how it works. Maybe you should calm down steering with Exponential settings?
  20. I was totally shocked. I thought that there will be some dirt, because wheels are inside body, but I have not expected so much gravel and dust. That was my idea too. I will try. I canceled Adjustable Arms and ordered Aluminium Uprights. Maybe I will try to install adjustable rear camber, but I am not sure. I do not want to change too many things at once. In terms of tires, I bought #22000 few days ago. However, first I want to learn how to drive car and feel it on stock tires. When I will be more confident and tires will be worn, I will change them.
  21. You're not kidding about the dirt, my fingers always got filthy handling my on-road cars after a run or two. Before buying more hop-ups, you might want to run softer springs, yellow front, red back, so less twitchy and more grip, better tires will help too. I always run soft springs on my on-road bashers jfor the extra grip, and it's better at absorbing bumps.
  22. Oh you won't have to worry about the kei-truck for this round, you'll have this to content with:
  23. I used to teeter tottering between calling the stock TT02 "toy grade" and all that...after fiddling with a few Chinese-brand RCs I've come to appreciate the TT02 more (and really most of Tamiyas cheap stuff). At least they accept standard 1/10 electronics, wheels, etc.
  24. @Otis311 I think that what you are describing is the result of losing grip because of sliding. A tire will have more grip when rolling than when sliding (rolling friction is higher than sliding friction). On a loose surface, the front tires will initially bite, as grip will momentarily increase as it transitions from going straight to initiating the turn and also some extra front weight transfer. After a split second, if the required grip exceeds the available rolling grip, which will happen easily on a loose surface, the front tires transition from rolling to sliding. Sliding has very low grip, therefore the understeer effect. Edit: Perhaps softening the front springs, tweaking front toe-out and/or rear droop could help. Keeping a slight throttle mid and late-turn might also increase steering.
  25. Here is the exploded view: https://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/instructionmanual/ez/pdf/34405_SANDMASTER2_0_ex.pdf It looks like they went to hex head hardware, still mostly tapping screws. I just picked up on ebay a slider monster tracker. I thought it was a Monster Tracker 2.0, but it is 1.0, with the droopy motor butt with only 2-3 motor mount holes. Still figuring out what body I am going to try and put on it. It is my first Kyosho in 30+ years!
  26. I used 3m perfect it 'fast cut plus extreme' The tools used is an old dremel and a mirka deros sand/rotating machine ( for example outside the body you can do a good polish with wool pad ) the pads I have some big ones from rupees and a small bit set from amazon or alieexpress I think. Sadly enough the dremel I have since I was a kid I think, so after a rebuild I noticed the speeds dident match and once plugged and turned on it jumps to hyperspeed, might replace for a new one ( I can get way better results ) Edit 2: forgot to mention I just take a normal elec. drill ( I got a regular parkside drill ) and put the small polishing pads on that one ( it will not be as fast as a dremel but way safer for sure ) Edit : I also have 2 other 3m compounds yellow and blue (finishing for swirls etc) , but I think these go well for the car clearcoat and would be overkill for a small lexan body, I have 2 body's to test on so I would not mind experimenting on these in the future. I hope mods wont mind if I share a vid I did on restoring lights / lamps of a car. The car lights are also polycarbonate lexan ( maybe with a extra layer or 2 on top ) but as you can see you can get a glass finish. This is also possible on a tamiya/lexan body but you have to be extremely patient and only use crazy sandpaper like kovax 3m specials.
  27. @Pylon80 My first as well, I am very happy it came with it, so now I know the proper way to install when I build my vintage XJR-12
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