Model: (Click to see more) 58038: Subaru Brat
Status: How To Guide
Date: 31-Mar-2013
Comments: 14
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I bought this Brat from ebay. While it seems complete the body was pretty trashed as you can see in the photos. I wanted to restore and not just replace parts and from the photos you can see the body has major cracks at the front. I could glue or tape the body back together, but the joints are never the same, and I want to use this as a runner so strength was important. Luckily a couple months ago I saw an article on hackaday (search friction welding at www.hackaday.com) about friction welding.

Tamiya hard plastic bodies are made of polystyrene, which is a thermoplastic (so is ABS and polycarbonate), so if you warm them enough, they will soften and eventually melt. Friction welding just involves spinning a tube of the material in a dremel or similar and pushing it against the plastic you want to join. For polystyrene the friction is enough heat and melt the plastic to form a good join. This technique is over 30yrs old and apparently was even part of a car toy from the 70s that you could smash and repair.

You have to move reasonably quickly, otherwise you can blow a hole in plastic, which I did at the base of the windscreen. I first tested using some polystyrene card and used the lowest spin speed on the dremel. The initial attempt I worked the weld too fast and it didn't hold very well. But my second try (after welding both sides) I found the weld to be very strong. Fig 7 is me flexing a test right angle joint without any issues. For maximum strength I would recommend welding both sides.

I was pretty happy with the finished weld, and it seems to be pretty strong. It will need sanding on the outside to smooth off, which I will eventually get around too!

All comments welcome.

Brat as bought. complete but seen better days Rotary tool (dremel like) and polystyrene rod cracks that need fixing polystyrene test piece. Flexing shows a good weld internal weld external weld. Hole at base of windscreen is from holding in place too long

Comments

JWeston

31-Mar-2013

Very interesting. Cheers.

zakspeed

31-Mar-2013

very interesting - i'll give that a go on my next project - like the look of the Brat

mongoose1983

31-Mar-2013

That's the sort of project car I love. Thank you for sharing this very interesting information on how to fix these problems.

KEV THE REV

31-Mar-2013

Something nice to get your teeth into for sure

R/CVET

31-Mar-2013

Nice score and I love the friction welding idea....never heard of it before but I have an original Wild One with a cracked chassis and I think I might try this to fix it. Thanks for sharing.

Eleck_Rider

31-Mar-2013

Never heard of this technique before. Plastic is pretty amazing stuff eh?

yogi-bear

31-Mar-2013

Thanks everyone. R/Cvet, the wild one chassis is ABS, and this technique should also work. I have some mauri galaxy shock towner mounts I need to try this technique on. You'll need some ABS rods though. One thing I probably should have done in this is remove the paint first, as it will probably contaminate the weld. But it seems strong enough.

Max Power

1-Apr-2013

Great idea, I can't wait to see the finished job .

Crash Cramer

1-Apr-2013

Stunning work and just like a full scale body shop, perhaps if it is a runner, you could paint the fender primer or other color to look like it came from the junkyard and needed some repair, rust weathering could also be a nice touch to go along with those wheels.

yogi-bear

1-Apr-2013

Thanks Max, will hopefully have it ready for the next run.

I agree Crash, I was thinking along the lines of a well used and abused brat. I will though strip all paint off and re-paint as a patched and repaired car, probably with less decals, hmm which reminds me. I'm also toying with the idea of painting the chassis in a satin black. I did notice a stress fracture at the front of the chassis, so don't know if I will have to deal with that.

KEV THE REV

2-Apr-2013

I painted my Frog runner chassis in black, it irons out the yellowing etc and looks good

yogi-bear

2-Apr-2013

Thanks Kev, agreed, just checked out your frog, nice work, pretty much what I was thinking of.

Leethal Driver

3-Apr-2013

Nice work. Got a couple of BF shells with some major damage where this might come in real handy.

VagabondStarJXF

8-Apr-2013

This is a great idea, I've used it to repair a suspension mount point which seems to be holding just fine at the moment, but I've just tried this on the Holiday Buggy 2010 shell and it didn't work, I just made a small 1/8' hole, so I guess that's another thing to add to the list of things that doesn't work on PE shells.


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