@pinpoint - it's Audi Brilliant Black rattle can from Halfords (I highly recommend this as a non-metallic black, it has a stunning depth to it). Filled nicks and scratches followed by a couple of coats of Halfords gray primer and rubbed back to 800 grit.
That makes for a good flat base. Then 3 coats of the Brilliant Black with a light rub down with 3600 grit MicroMesh in between each after at least 2 days curing time. Once all cured, a final flat back to about 6000 grit MicroMesh before 2-3 coats of Halfords Gloss Clear with a couple of days curing time and 3600 rub down in between. Leave that at least 2 weeks before final rub down through the grades of MicroMesh.
For that final finish I usually go 3600, 6000, 8000, 10000, 12000 and you can stop a little earlier if you don't want it too shiny (8000 is already as shiny as any factory 1:1 car ever is). If you want to go all the way you can use a liquid or paste compound at the end to take out any remaining fine surface scratches (Tamiya Fine compound is good for this).
Yes it's time consuming and lots of waiting in between coats, but basically the main ingredient is patience, not talent. Also, use the MicroMesh and nothing else. It's the best stuff at model scale - regular wet and dry is just too rough.
Super restoration and stunning paintwork all over and a J-Man roof to boot (shame that John isn't making these and other alloy parts anymore) - very well done and Enjoy
That's a super amount of prep, painting, sanding and laqure, I'm very impressed, did you ever get any problems with too much paint build up with the detailing especially on the front grill. I will plan to follow your sequence very soon. After my vintage FAV. Wicked painting.....
Yes, shells with a lot of detail need more care and attention, particularly in prep and rubbing down as you do need the paint on thinner to keep the details. Fortunately this shell doesn't really have any fine detail so it's an easy one to do. There's just a lot of it, so it's time consuming
Truly inspiring work. I am busy with mine as well...also a Hilux. The chassis are ok to do...but the bodies are tough...considering i have zero skill/patience for painting. Wish there where more of you resto guys in Cape Town that i could send a body or 2 to...
Comments
Thommo
Thanks for sharing this with us on the forum too Mate, it's been great to see it get to here...
Fuijo
Looks fabulous! Top notch paintwork there, love it.
Pinpoint
Looks like some true effort has gone into the paint finish on the body, can you give some details on the finish..... Pinpoint
casethejoint
Thanks for the comments guys!
@pinpoint - it's Audi Brilliant Black rattle can from Halfords (I highly recommend this as a non-metallic black, it has a stunning depth to it). Filled nicks and scratches followed by a couple of coats of Halfords gray primer and rubbed back to 800 grit.
That makes for a good flat base. Then 3 coats of the Brilliant Black with a light rub down with 3600 grit MicroMesh in between each after at least 2 days curing time. Once all cured, a final flat back to about 6000 grit MicroMesh before 2-3 coats of Halfords Gloss Clear with a couple of days curing time and 3600 rub down in between. Leave that at least 2 weeks before final rub down through the grades of MicroMesh.
For that final finish I usually go 3600, 6000, 8000, 10000, 12000 and you can stop a little earlier if you don't want it too shiny (8000 is already as shiny as any factory 1:1 car ever is). If you want to go all the way you can use a liquid or paste compound at the end to take out any remaining fine surface scratches (Tamiya Fine compound is good for this).
Yes it's time consuming and lots of waiting in between coats, but basically the main ingredient is patience, not talent. Also, use the MicroMesh and nothing else. It's the best stuff at model scale - regular wet and dry is just too rough.
mackerb03
Very nice example!
Doc007
Super restoration and stunning paintwork all over and a J-Man roof to boot (shame that John isn't making these and other alloy parts anymore) - very well done and Enjoy
Pinpoint
That's a super amount of prep, painting, sanding and laqure, I'm very impressed, did you ever get any problems with too much paint build up with the detailing especially on the front grill. I will plan to follow your sequence very soon. After my vintage FAV. Wicked painting.....
casethejoint
Yes, shells with a lot of detail need more care and attention, particularly in prep and rubbing down as you do need the paint on thinner to keep the details. Fortunately this shell doesn't really have any fine detail so it's an easy one to do. There's just a lot of it, so it's time consuming
Puffdog
Truly inspiring work. I am busy with mine as well...also a Hilux. The chassis are ok to do...but the bodies are tough...considering i have zero skill/patience for painting. Wish there where more of you resto guys in Cape Town that i could send a body or 2 to...
berman
Quality restoration. Love it and the attention to detail you have given it, you can see the passion involved through your workmanship.
SHY69
Super nice!
Outta Control
Looking so nice this one!
3speedgek
Very nice looking car you got there
Is the rolbar an aluminium one ?
It looks like that and I like it.
casethejoint
Thanks for the comments guys. @3speedgek, yes it's a J-Man alloy roof and roll cage.
netsmithUK
Looked at your pictures lots recently and I've only just noticed the ally roll cage. Its great.
androS
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