Model: (Click to see more) 58372: Ford F350 High Lift
Status: New built
Date: 24-Oct-2006
Comments: 9
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I have just finished it, fitted the Integy 55 Turn Lathe motor which works absolutely fine and so scale like. Also used a 1/14 truck antenna to make it look as real as possible (BTW I'm having interference using this at the end of the receiver's aerial, any ideas?) Missing the wing mirrors but it's because I'm going to make the same system as my Pajero ( to save them from sure death while trialling in the forest...
Also fitted Juggernaut green lights on the roll bar.

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Actually is not interference what you are noise due to an unbalanced antenna connection. Some 75Mhz (is worst with 27Mhz) front ends don't like you change the length of the antenna, or more common yet, you connect a metal in the end. Remember the Sand Scorcher, never worked fine with the connection directly to the wire antenna, then you had to screwed the cable around. Has the 55 lathe motor the capacitors?.
Probably the telescopic Tamiya antenna works with most of the receivers but I’m sure doesn’t with the old generation ones.
You can try to sold the cable to the telescopic, try to pass the cable in other way, be sure that the motor has 3 ceramic capacitors (0,1 microfarads).
Also you should verify that the ESC provides stable voltage at the time you throttle up the motor, although the motor have more turns could need a higher amperage peak at the beginning.
I had a similar problem with my Hi-lift and 4 channel Futaba receiver, I fixed the problem just adding a Hi-Tech BEC in the voltage line to the receiver, to keep the voltage in 5 volts. The servors work slowly but have not noise when the motor is loaded. Obviously the BEC the ESC provided was not enough to keep the 7,2 v. A bad NiMh cell, not all the pack, could also be the problem
I’m electronic engineer and worked in RC service during the 80, many times receivers refuse to work in a environment and works perfectly in other, but most of the times the reason is what I listed above. Good Luck!

Chain Driven


Hi Mario,

Thanks a lot for your email, I really apreciate!

I need to give you more specific infos then, I'm using the Futaba system recommended by Tamiya so it's 27mhz and the 'interferences' only happen when the car is 6 metres away or more...and about the motor, there is no capacitor in fact. What do you think then, is it the variation of the antenna lengh then? Because when the truck is close to me, no problem.

Thanks again!

All the best




Wow Jerome....
this one is really great....
very nice collor... is it racing green ?

and the exhaust is this one incl. in this kit?



Very nice, but it will look far better covered in mud, and knowing you that won't take long!

Chain Driven


Hi Pat, the colour is an Opel pearlescent green paint, and the exhaust came as free choice in the box! You should not sell yours it's a great kit!



Nice color choice..Does remind me of my High Lift <url></url>



Jerome, Well, I am another electrical engineer and I have also been a HAM operator for 40 years. Everything Mario has told you is 100% correct. After you add the three caps. to the motor there is one more thing that you can try. I don't know what route you took with running the wire to the antenna but I can bet that you ran it along the frame rail. If so, that can shield the signal and also add intereference with the to the receivers signal if you have done it that way. Try running the antenna wire on the inside of the body on its trip to the outside antenna. Also try not to make it parallel to the frame rail while you are running the wire. You can even add a small loop to the wire which would help even more. Try different configurations with running the wire to see which works best. As a very last resort you can cut off the end of the wire the exact same length as your antenna and then attach the wire from the receiver to the antenna. Save the old wire because you might have to solder it back on to your receiver wire if this does not work. Again this is a last resort method and I assume no responsibility for trying this method (you should be able to get it to work without resorting to this method). Even thought the antenna wire from the receiver is tuned to a specific frequency you still have a couple of inches lee-way either way. That receiver circuit is tuned to work with various crystals all having a different frequency and requiring different lengths of wire, so that is why you have a couple of inches to play with. Did you ever wonder why you never see an antenna on a large RC boat? The reason is that they run the wire horizontally around the inside of the hull and it works just fine with great range. I too hate antennas but have been able to run the antenna wire horizontally inside of most of my trucks with good success. Go to my showroom at ( [Click here] ) and you will not see the antenna on my TXT or Evader. Look at one of the side or rear views of my Evader and you will see the antenna sticking out the back of the buggy. I get excellent results with that setup and when I am racing I don't have to worry about the antenna when I flip and I flip alot. All my racers are set up that way. My Evader, Associated B4 and my Losi buggy are all set up this way and all have graphite chassies which even adds to the overall problem of chassi intereference. This was going to be a short comment about how great your truck looks. Good luck!! Contact me if you need more help.

Chain Driven


Thanks a lot also to you RG4WD! You are 100 % right, the wire is running not only along the rails but inside as well ... I'll try all this tomorow and will let you know thanks again. TC is all about helping each other and sharing a wonderful hobby!!!



Great colors same as my real truck..well almost I have a Dodge in this color. Nice rig though!

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