OnTheTrail

While the OP asked about "go anywhere Tamiya", I'd have to say, for my fleet it would be the BBX. With a larger (than most Tamiya buggies) wheels/tires, Super Stock motor and the rear stabilizer, it performs very well on a lot of surfaces. Very quick (for me) and the stabilizer makes a huge difference, especially when you run it on the road. I'm not crazy about running any RC through grass but the BBX will still do pretty well in grass. Now.......since others deviated from the original intent , if we can add in other brands, I'd say one of my TRX4s with 2-speed and selectable diffs would be the overall go anywhere RC. That's just my preference as usually my "anywhere" would include trails, hills and rocks. But when you shift to the higher gear and unlock the diffs, it's rather fun on other surfaces as well.

Hmmm, I'd have to think about this. Don't know if could narrow it down to just three. but from memory, I'd say: >Led Zeppelin (by this time I had all of their first ten albums...all in rotation...all on vinyl) >The Who - Who's Next > JVC Jazz Festival 1986 My barometer for which were my favorites back there are when I owned the same album both on vinyl and cassette. One for the house, one for the car. CD players were starting to come out at that time but way above my budget.

Glad to hear you and your doctors have you on the right track. Thoughts and prayers for a speedy recovery as well as a recovery filled with lots of RC builds!

Another batch of car washes to get rid of the drywall dust. I'll do the same with the buggies sometime next week.

We have a major bath remodel that just finished up. With all the drywall sanding there was dust all over the house including my office right across the hall. All my cars had a nice layer of dust so lunch time was car wash day. Strategically got this all done before my wife came home from work.

I got this a few weeks ago from Rinskie here on TC. Got bearings and Deans connector already soldered onto the ESC. This build, when I get around to it will start out as a shelf queen (after a driveway run or two ) and then wait till my nephew's son is old enough to enjoy a hobby quality RC. I have a few RTR take-off transmitter/receivers I can toss in so we can drive together some day. Thanks again, @Rinskie !

I'm guessing it's the camera angle but to me, the car looks noticeably quicker in the first video than the second one.

Just as a quick public service announcement, ( ) anytime thread lock gives you trouble removing the screw, try a little heat. If you risk too much heat from a pencil butane torch, try resting the tip of a soldering iron on the outside of the part (i.e. the part you want to expand). This trick uses both thermal expansion of the outer metal as well as the heat helping to loosen the bond of the thread lock.

Thanks for the info but no need for the list at this time. What I ended up doing is getting a set of tires/wheels for the Rough Rider/Buggy Champ. Don't recall how expensive the were at the time but now they're plentiful due to the rerelease of the Buggy Champ.

Best of luck. It's a horrible feeling. We occasionally will have basement water issues depending on how saturated the ground hydraulics get. I've already been a nervous wreck for days while being on vacation and looking at the rain forecast back at home where I can't do anything about it.....

<I'm guessing this has been discussed previously but I wasn't able to find a post with a search> This is a trick I learned years ago when flying precision aerobatics. I thought to share this as I got an aftermarket TT02 steering linkage set and the ball ends were somewhat tight. On a test fit, I could feel they effected the movement of the suspension as well as the turning of the steering hubs. As we know, most ball links are metal ball into plastic and as such, sometimes can be too tight. In the airplanes this was real critical to have the ball links to be tight (i.e. not allow any play) but still articulate very smoothly. To do this you need to find the exact same size screw as the I.D. of the ball. Then you need to clamp that down with a nut on the other side. Only need to cinch it fairly tight, don't need to death lock it. Then you take the exposed threads and chuck them up in a high speed Dremel tool. What you're going to do it essentially spin the ball very fast inside of the plastic ball end. That said it is critical that you only burst the Dremel to high speed on and immediately off. You're basically using friction to burnish in the ball to the inner race of the plastic ball link. AGAIN, only use an instant on and off with the Dremel. You can do it many cycles if needed but if you leave it on for too long, you WILL melt plastic. You can wobble the ball around too to get other areas smoothed out. Check it each time until it feels just right. The goal is to have the ball articulated freely in every axis (including rotation) without allowing any slop. Occasionally it feels perfect when you just finish up but may tightened up ever slightly again after the piece cools a little. Not biggie, just chuck it back up and burst one more time. Hope this helps.

This is a great idea. Or even better (i.e. wishful thinking ) perhaps would be a 380 size motor with a built in ESC (think HW Quicrun Fusion ) that the overall length with the built in esc is similar to the a 540 brushed. Basically a direct drop-in size that's comparable in power/torgue/motor bolt pattern.

Almost finished the chassis for the Ford GT. The blue bits on this one are all after market and I have to say, I got lucky with all of them. I disassemble the shocks and reassembled them with green slime and the proper amount of shock oil. Seem very smooth and the rear ones were on there for several days and no leaking. The center shaft and cups all fit well and run smooth. The steering linkage is the one that surprised me the most. A few reviews said they had as much slop as the stock set but the set got seem as tight as the Tamiya brand ones in on of my other TT02s. Only thing I need to do it get the balls to move a little smoother on the outboard links. I have a trick that we used to do with ball links on the RC planes that will smooth them right up.

^^^This^^^ This is what I wanted to see last year when this similar question was asked for 2024. And as such, I'll officially use this post as my place holder for the 2026 request thread when that emerges about a year from now.

After @Rinskie mentioned the deal he got direct from TamiyaUSA during the holidays I was keeping my eye on the DT03. They left the $65 holiday special price on it for a good week or two but at the time you couldn't order it due to inventory. A few days before inventory was done, I notice the holiday promo price was taken down. Oh well, all for the better....I really don't need an other RC car. The last one I got was the last one I'll ever need.....