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About OnTheTrail

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  1. Street price is $379 USD. I wanted to get a hold of a vintage RC10 so bad. Then the release......then the release price.
  2. If you want scale military, take a look at the King Kong 6x6. Amazon here in the US sell the chassis only which would be perfect since you want to do a scratch body. https://www.amazon.com/Kingkong-RC-ZISL-151-Soviet-Chassis/dp/B08BHT95MS/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=2Laoi&content-id=amzn1.sym.3c3990c3-513c-4686-8d92-a42b4095cecb%3Aamzn1.symc.8b620bc3-61d8-46b3-abd9-110539785634&pf_rd_p=3c3990c3-513c-4686-8d92-a42b4095cecb&pf_rd_r=5XRNMRJT8EJGG96KHYZZ&pd_rd_wg=LwGhh&pd_rd_r=030927d7-c101-471f-9d4c-ba4c0e06b37a&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d That said, unless I'm missing something, from what I can tell from the link you provided, the Leyland is a not a 6x6 but rather a 6x4.
  3. There's no such thing as "completed household works". Your wife will just advance them to phase II, III, IV etc.....
  4. The BBX is substantially larger that the poly beetle or the SS Beetle bodies. Not sure how either could work.
  5. Very impressive. Next time my family goes on vacation, would you mind giving some pointers to my wife and daughter on how to pack luggage?
  6. Are some of those 50 cars Matchbox cars by chance? 50? Wow....very impressive.
  7. Personally I'd stick with using tools to fix this. The more you stress the suspension parts to force it in the more likely they'll fall out next time. Oh, and avoid curbs too! LOL
  8. My Alfa GTA body set finally came in this week to my LHS. Also my first BL motor and esc for the car side of the hobby. Going into Slash. Bunch of friends are running them in a parking lot Friday nights. Lots of fun.
  9. I'd agree but technically since the Rough Rider started it all you could say that about any Tamiya 2wd buggy including the Wild One.
  10. Next time leave the shocks in your pants pockets instead of your keys and they'll clean themselves.
  11. I resisted for years to get the MIP drivers. Best tool in the RC tool collection. Not cheap but they work very well. I also have both a metric and SAE Wiha ball end drivers. These are good too but the since they're ball drivers, I don't expect to use as much pressure as a straight end hex driver. To me, they're two different tools for two different purposes. I know that sounds odd .....
  12. If anyone decides to go this way, may I make a suggestion that you use a different type connector for the esc/motor then you do for the esc/battery? In other words, if you currently use an XT60 on all your batteries, I'd use a Deans on the motor/esc so you don't mistakenly plug the wrong thing in on the bench some day.
  13. Great info all! Thanks. I'll start to see what I can come up with.
  14. I have a custom project I've been working on on and off for quite a while. While it's not a Tamiya, the axle stub portion is your standard 5mm OD so I'm looking to find a new CV axle/shaft just a little longer than this one as it has a tendency to come out of the drive cup at full droop and I think this is why the shafts are getting bent. I can limit the down travel but this is a rock crawler project so I'd rather keep the travel as much as possible. What measurement (from where to where) is standard for selecting these? From the edge of the cup or perhaps the part the bearing will stop at? Or some other measurement...???? Thx.......
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